Friday, August 3, 2012

“Are there mountains where you’re from?”


Questions

Whether it’s while I’m pasearing or while I’m chilling with my host-family, I find the questions I get asked to be extremely amusing.  Below is a mix of questions, some that I get asked frequently; some that I simply found so entertaining I had to write them down:

“Are there mountains where you’re from?”

“Are there poor people in your country?”

“Do people live in the campo (countryside) where you’re from?”

“Are there Chinese people there?  What about black people?”

“Is the Chinese way of speaking the same as yours?  Can you understand each other?”
-          “No.  Chinese is a different language.”

“Are babies in your country born knowing English or do they have to go to school to learn it?”
-          “All babies are born not knowing how to talk.  They learn to speak the language of their parents.”

“Have you traveled by airplane?  What is that like?”

“Have you traveled by boat?”

“When people go swimming, do they wear lifejackets?
-          “Not usually.”
Not even in the Olympic games?”
-          “Definitely not.”

“Is it true that the U.S. sent the first people that walked on the moon?”

“I’ve heard some say it’s the earth that moves and not the sun.  Is that true?”
-          “Yes.” (I proceed to use pifá fruit to show how the earth rotates on an axis and also rotates around the stationary sun)
“I’ve heard thunder comes from God’s trident.  Is that true?”
-          “I don’t believe so.”

“How many siblings do you have?”
-          “One older sister.”
“And brothers?”
-          “None.”
“It’s just you two?!?!”

“Is it hot like this where you’re from?”
-          “Yes, except it almost never rains.  It is very dry there.”

“How do women stop having babies over there?  Do they all have operations?”

“How much did your ______ cost?”
-          “I don’t remember.  I got it years ago.”  or: “I don’t know, it was a gift.”

“Did you fall down today?”
-          “Yes.”
“How many times?”
-          “…”

“What are you reading?  A dictionary?”
-          “No. I’m reading a book.”

“How much water did you drink today?  Why do you drink so much water?”
-          “Because I sweat a lot.”

“Are you going to get a dog like the last volunteer?”

“I know you are here to work on agriculture, but can you also help us get latrines, a health center, stoves, another aqueduct, etc.?”

“When you leave in 2 years, are you going to sell your stuff like the last volunteer?  Can I buy the mattress you haven’t bought yet?”

“Do you like it here?”

“Do you find yourself / feel at ease here?”  ß I love how they phrase this question.  In Spanish they say: Usted se halla aquí?  It took me a minute to realize their use of hallar, which directly translates “to find” means something more like “are you comfortable here?”  I always answer “yes, of course! … but I’m still trying to get used to walking through mud …”

Mud (mom, you may not like this part)

Before coming to Panama, I had of course heard that it rains a lot and that I would need good footwear to combat the mud.  I knew that the rain would be annoying – it results in the cancelling or postponing of planned events and makes outdoor work somewhat uncomfortable.  I didn’t think much about the mud issue, because I just assumed that since I don’t mind getting dirty (who am I trying to impress here?), I wouldn’t mind dealing with it.  I was naïve.

The paths around my community coming off the main road are narrow and steep.  If you have experience hiking, you have probably already noticed that going downhill is harder on the joints, etc. than going uphill.  Add rain into this equation and going downhill becomes the most challenging thing ever.  I try wearing good boots; I try using a walking stick; I try going ridiculously slowly.  These things certainly help, but they are no guarantee.  I fall down a lot.  Most of you know that I’m a huge klutz and somewhat injury prone.  So far I’ve only suffered from a sore butt, a few bruises/cuts, and of course getting my clothes pretty dirty, but I’m constantly terrified that one of these falls will result in something worse.  My host-family assures me that I will get used to this kind of walking, but they also tell stories of people who’ve fallen and seriously hurt themselves to show that it’s not just me.  They tell me to take it slow and to not rush myself just because others are walking faster.  Ayayay.

There are different types of mud.  Some mud is so slick it reminds me of trying to walk on ice.  Some is so sticky that after walking in it for a few minutes I find I am walking on a platform of heavy mud that is really difficult to remove from the bottom of my shoes.  And some is like quicksand in which your foot begins sinking in and gets completely stuck.  I had some rough times working on a fish tank project in this third type... 

sooo slippery
Chaco sandals = no match for sticky mud
The fish tank I worked on was mostly dug out already but we needed to finish it up and add in the tubing.  The guys immediately went to work trying to remove the sludge from the bottom of the tank.  Shovels didn’t work well because the mud stuck to them.  Bare hands let much of the mud slip through our fingers and so also proved inefficient.  After struggling for a while and trying to decide how much I should intervene considering I had already admitted I know little about fish tanks and was there to learn how to make them, I finally decided to say something.  I suggested we try to dry the tank out before continuing to dig deeper.  We set up some tubes to drain out the water and sludge into the nearby creek.  The work was still really difficult and felt somewhat futile, but I feel like I at least contributed something and they said it was a good idea.

Barefoot and attempting to dig out a fish tank in quicksand mud. 
Keeping Busy

I have now located and visited all of the 41 households that make up El Harino.  Pasearing has proved a great way to get to know people, and I am now beginning a second round of it in order to both catch people that weren’t home the first time and also to gather more information for the community analysis project I have to complete during my first three months here.  Now that I have more experience pasearing, I feel I know better how to direct the conversations to get the information I want.

Busting out my camera is always a great way to get in with the kids as I pasear 
More fun with cameras
I am lucky to have a host-dad who includes me in his work plans.  Many SAS females struggle with machismo and are not taken seriously when it comes to field work.  My host-dad on the other hand, has already invited me to machete fields, harvest coffee and yucca, dig a fish tank, and most recently plant plantain.

Planting with my little host-brother :)
One interesting character very involved in the community is a retired nurse named Diny who lives outside in a nearby city, but owns a coffee farm in El Harino and is the main facilitator for our women’s group Mujeres Unidas.  She is clearly self-motivated, but seems capable of bringing in some useful resources for the community.  She coordinated with a renewable energy government project and was able to bring in a solar kiosk to charge cell phones and a special kind of lamp that was donated to all members of Mujeres Unidas.  I am not convinced that these lamps are actually convenient for the large quantity of members that live in communities far outside of El Harino, but hopefully they will work out somehow.  Also, the solar kiosk was placed right under a very tall tree.  Hmm.

Solar kiosk grand opening.  The kiosk is in the background and the tall tree is just to the left. 
Diny is also interested in working on capacity-building to train El Harino community members on best practices for planting and harvesting coffee.  While she wants to do this in order to increase her options of finding cheap, local labor (she pays about $1/hour), I also want to see this training occur so that community members can better their own coffee farm production.  It seems that we have different motivation, but perhaps can still work together to some degree…

Group of coffee experts Diny gathered to tour her farm.  I tried to ask as many questions as possible about low-cost, organic techniques, but these particular experts didn’t quite seem to have the same priorities.
I am lucky to have an unusually high number of volunteers living in nearby communities.  There are two girls and one guy all living within about a one hour hike away from me.  We coordinate some of our trips out of our communities to use internet and also visit each other when we are in need of an English break.  Last weekend we gathered at my friend Siobhan’s community to check out her prime swimming spot.

Playing in the water with my PCV neighbors.
Records!
I’ll leave you with some notable records I’ve been keeping track of just for fun:

- Maximum number of falls in one day: 3
- Longest rainstorm I had to wait out: 3 hours
- Earliest the roosters have starting crowing: 1:00 am
- Number of pifá fruit I’ve eaten in one sitting: 21
- Number of boiled bananas I’ve eaten in one sitting: 5
- Number of nights spent sleeping on a tiny REI air mattress: 30 and counting (I’ll lug a better mattress out here at some point)
- Number of marañon curazao fruit (related to cashew) I’ve eaten in a day: 3

Delicious marañon curazao fruit

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