Friday, August 17, 2012

It’s Orange Season! Except they’re not actually orange.


Pride be gone

Last week we had a much more productive work day on the fish tank project.  Much of the muddy water from the last time had drained out through the tube we’d left, which was a huge help.  Also as soon as we arrived, it was decided that we would start by building up a wall on the side of the tank where water continued to seep in and to dig a canal on the other side guiding the water to the tube that carried it out to the creek while we were working.  The funny thing is, that is exactly what I said we should do two weeks ago.  I’m truly not sure if last time they didn’t understand me, if they forgot I had suggested it, or if this was their indirect Panamanian way of telling me they changed their minds and wanted to try it.  Throughout the work day we all commented on how much we were getting done and how great it was going.  I even heard someone say, “If only we’d started with this last time …” Arg.  On one hand I definitely found this frustrating; however, I recognized that day that my work here is not about me getting credit for figuring out solutions to problems.  My work is to encourage others to figure out their own solutions and to have faith in themselves to know that they can.  I’d like to think at the very least that my presence and constant questioning about how they were doing things helped guide them to the more efficient plan they finally implemented, but the bottom line is that even though the previous work day seemed futile, they did not give up and kept at it until they figured out a better way.  I’m so excited about their success.

Before (in case you forgot what this looked like from my ‘quicksand mud’ blog)
And after. Yay for a canal and wall guiding water to a purposefully placed tube to begin filling the tank, which is now ready for fish! 

Playing a Dual-Role: Professional & Community Member

I have recently found myself struggling in some awkward situations.  The main Panamanian agriculture organization MIDA seems to be showing an increasingly large presence in neighboring and my communities.  This is good news because they bring in resources like informational presentations as well as tools and seeds.  As such, I have made a strong effort to connect with them, and this seems to be going well.  I feel I am gaining their respect by showing up to their events, recruiting my community members to come with me, remaining engaged and asking questions throughout their presentations, and I believe my Spanish ability has surprised them.  But I need to be careful.  Many community members think of MIDA employees as out of touch with their realities and think that all they want for is people to pay them to analyze farms and so have no real interest in helping.  They point out that not a single MIDA employee has a farm of their own, so how can they know what is best?  I try to emphasize that combining academic studies by agencies like MIDA with the practical experience of producers like them is the best way to go, and that neither can possibly know everything there is to know about agriculture.  Nevertheless I sense that I need to be careful and avoid being too closely associated with professionals like these. 

Last week I went to a meeting where MIDA discussed a pest that is beginning to show up on coffee farms around Panama called broca.  MIDA brought in their electric generator and gave a PowerPoint presentation.  Really?  The producers in the room had not been exposed to formal education since age 12, read at below a 6th grade level, and rarely if ever see things like computers.  I doubt PowerPoint is the best educational tool for this audience. 

Producers gathered in a classroom to listen to MIDA. 
Furthermore, the vocabulary used throughout the presentation was excessively difficult.  I asked for definitions of some large words even though I knew them just because I was pretty sure others didn’t, but wouldn’t ask themselves.  I hope the producers recognized my willingness to show that I don’t know everything and that asking questions is the best way to learn more.

Complicated slide showing both the life cycles of the pest and also of a fungus that can be used as a biological control.  There is no way the producers will ever use the biological control method (way too expensive and unavailable), so why even show this? I feel this kind of thing confuses more than it enlightens.
After the presentation which was in a neighboring community, I began discussing with my community members that we should get a ride back with MIDA.  The MIDA reps said they were going somewhere first and would pick people up on their way back.  They invited me to go with them and I later found out that I was being treated to their lunch, while my community members waited by the side of the road for us to return.  I felt pretty crappy about that, but again, I also feel that the more trust MIDA has in me, the more help they will provide for community projects.  So I ate my free pifá, bread, yucca, canned sardines, and coffee while chatting it up with the MIDA representatives.  We then headed back to El Harino, stopping along the way so my community members could hop in the back of the truck.


Fun Facts About Daily Life

Oranges here are not orange.  They are harvested pretty green and unripe.  People cut the tops off and suck the juice out.  My family at first laughed at the way I peel and eat the whole orange, but now the kids often ask me to peel theirs my way.  When these oranges start ripening they turn sort of yellow, but still pretty green.  I told them we have oranges in the U.S. too but that they are more orange in color.  My host-dad said, “you mean more yellow?”  I said, “no, more orange.  Like a mix between red and yellow.”  Still not sure he understood.

Harvesting yellowish green oranges.
I have been falling down way less often!  I believe this is due to a combination of factors.  I got Panamanian rubber boots, I take a walking stick with me when I know I will be crossing rivers or creeks, I try to wait a little after intense rain storms for the paths to dry, and hopefully I am simply getting used to how to walk around here.

Intense hike to the top of my host-brother’s Otoi farm (type of root vegetable) with no falling!  You can see my host-family’s house in the background if you look extremely carefully.
I’ve been to a couple of church events at both the evangelical and catholic churches.  I’ve slowly been explaining to people what “I’m Jewish” means and it’s been going over just fine.  People still seem excited to see me at such events and I like seeing community members get together.  Last week I participated in the parading of San Isidrio’s statue from one community to ours.

Marching with community members. 
This saint is some kind of agriculture patron, so of course he is holding a machete and a coa (Panamanian tool for digging holes)
I think it is duck mating season and duck reproduction is somewhat disturbing and violent.  I will spare you any photos.

I have been playing with my host-family kids a lot.  I’ve had lucky timing with holding the baby and have only been peed on again once and have not yet been crapped on at all (no diapers are worn here).  I struggle with not getting upset with the kids for being incredibly hurtful to animals.  Dogs here are whipped for no reason and chickens are tortured.  When we eat, all food scraps (peels and bones) go to the floor where the dogs and birds eat them.  It seems they are doing us a favor by cleaning up, so why kick them and shoe them away?

Cuties
This poor baby chick often gets chased, picked up by its wing or head, and is thrown into the air although it is too young to fly.
Pretty sure this is the “please let go of me” face.
My host-family once asked me to sing a song for them in English.  The first one I thought of was “Twinkle Twinkle Little Star.”  I am now asked to sing this regularly by both the kids and their parents.

My host-dad and I finally picked a day and started a compost pile!  In Panama, things degrade so quickly that the compost should be ready in less than three months.  For some reason, the morning we were to work on compost, I awoke and saw a few piles of burning leaves.  Huh?  I had clearly told my host-dad that we could put leaves in the compost pile, so why was he still burning them?  Who knows.  But fortunately, the rest of our compost-making day went well!  And if this works out, hopefully he’ll continue composting organic material and burn less of it.

Compost = fun for the whole family!
Panamanians are very into limp handshakes.  Limp handshakes (more like touches really) accompany every hello and every goodbye, and are given to everyone in a group.  Like people stop what they’re doing when someone new arrives so that the new person can touch everyone else’s hand, and same goes for when someone leaves the group.  I guess I’m getting used to this.  City Panamanians instead do the hug & and cheek kiss, but not so much out here in the campo.  I miss hugs!  People here also say “hasta mañana” or “see you tomorrow” even when there is no chance you will see them tomorrow.  They seem to treat it as a general way to say “bye” or “see you later.”

So with that said, see you tomorrow :)

Friday, August 3, 2012

“Are there mountains where you’re from?”


Questions

Whether it’s while I’m pasearing or while I’m chilling with my host-family, I find the questions I get asked to be extremely amusing.  Below is a mix of questions, some that I get asked frequently; some that I simply found so entertaining I had to write them down:

“Are there mountains where you’re from?”

“Are there poor people in your country?”

“Do people live in the campo (countryside) where you’re from?”

“Are there Chinese people there?  What about black people?”

“Is the Chinese way of speaking the same as yours?  Can you understand each other?”
-          “No.  Chinese is a different language.”

“Are babies in your country born knowing English or do they have to go to school to learn it?”
-          “All babies are born not knowing how to talk.  They learn to speak the language of their parents.”

“Have you traveled by airplane?  What is that like?”

“Have you traveled by boat?”

“When people go swimming, do they wear lifejackets?
-          “Not usually.”
Not even in the Olympic games?”
-          “Definitely not.”

“Is it true that the U.S. sent the first people that walked on the moon?”

“I’ve heard some say it’s the earth that moves and not the sun.  Is that true?”
-          “Yes.” (I proceed to use pifá fruit to show how the earth rotates on an axis and also rotates around the stationary sun)
“I’ve heard thunder comes from God’s trident.  Is that true?”
-          “I don’t believe so.”

“How many siblings do you have?”
-          “One older sister.”
“And brothers?”
-          “None.”
“It’s just you two?!?!”

“Is it hot like this where you’re from?”
-          “Yes, except it almost never rains.  It is very dry there.”

“How do women stop having babies over there?  Do they all have operations?”

“How much did your ______ cost?”
-          “I don’t remember.  I got it years ago.”  or: “I don’t know, it was a gift.”

“Did you fall down today?”
-          “Yes.”
“How many times?”
-          “…”

“What are you reading?  A dictionary?”
-          “No. I’m reading a book.”

“How much water did you drink today?  Why do you drink so much water?”
-          “Because I sweat a lot.”

“Are you going to get a dog like the last volunteer?”

“I know you are here to work on agriculture, but can you also help us get latrines, a health center, stoves, another aqueduct, etc.?”

“When you leave in 2 years, are you going to sell your stuff like the last volunteer?  Can I buy the mattress you haven’t bought yet?”

“Do you like it here?”

“Do you find yourself / feel at ease here?”  ß I love how they phrase this question.  In Spanish they say: Usted se halla aquí?  It took me a minute to realize their use of hallar, which directly translates “to find” means something more like “are you comfortable here?”  I always answer “yes, of course! … but I’m still trying to get used to walking through mud …”

Mud (mom, you may not like this part)

Before coming to Panama, I had of course heard that it rains a lot and that I would need good footwear to combat the mud.  I knew that the rain would be annoying – it results in the cancelling or postponing of planned events and makes outdoor work somewhat uncomfortable.  I didn’t think much about the mud issue, because I just assumed that since I don’t mind getting dirty (who am I trying to impress here?), I wouldn’t mind dealing with it.  I was naïve.

The paths around my community coming off the main road are narrow and steep.  If you have experience hiking, you have probably already noticed that going downhill is harder on the joints, etc. than going uphill.  Add rain into this equation and going downhill becomes the most challenging thing ever.  I try wearing good boots; I try using a walking stick; I try going ridiculously slowly.  These things certainly help, but they are no guarantee.  I fall down a lot.  Most of you know that I’m a huge klutz and somewhat injury prone.  So far I’ve only suffered from a sore butt, a few bruises/cuts, and of course getting my clothes pretty dirty, but I’m constantly terrified that one of these falls will result in something worse.  My host-family assures me that I will get used to this kind of walking, but they also tell stories of people who’ve fallen and seriously hurt themselves to show that it’s not just me.  They tell me to take it slow and to not rush myself just because others are walking faster.  Ayayay.

There are different types of mud.  Some mud is so slick it reminds me of trying to walk on ice.  Some is so sticky that after walking in it for a few minutes I find I am walking on a platform of heavy mud that is really difficult to remove from the bottom of my shoes.  And some is like quicksand in which your foot begins sinking in and gets completely stuck.  I had some rough times working on a fish tank project in this third type... 

sooo slippery
Chaco sandals = no match for sticky mud
The fish tank I worked on was mostly dug out already but we needed to finish it up and add in the tubing.  The guys immediately went to work trying to remove the sludge from the bottom of the tank.  Shovels didn’t work well because the mud stuck to them.  Bare hands let much of the mud slip through our fingers and so also proved inefficient.  After struggling for a while and trying to decide how much I should intervene considering I had already admitted I know little about fish tanks and was there to learn how to make them, I finally decided to say something.  I suggested we try to dry the tank out before continuing to dig deeper.  We set up some tubes to drain out the water and sludge into the nearby creek.  The work was still really difficult and felt somewhat futile, but I feel like I at least contributed something and they said it was a good idea.

Barefoot and attempting to dig out a fish tank in quicksand mud. 
Keeping Busy

I have now located and visited all of the 41 households that make up El Harino.  Pasearing has proved a great way to get to know people, and I am now beginning a second round of it in order to both catch people that weren’t home the first time and also to gather more information for the community analysis project I have to complete during my first three months here.  Now that I have more experience pasearing, I feel I know better how to direct the conversations to get the information I want.

Busting out my camera is always a great way to get in with the kids as I pasear 
More fun with cameras
I am lucky to have a host-dad who includes me in his work plans.  Many SAS females struggle with machismo and are not taken seriously when it comes to field work.  My host-dad on the other hand, has already invited me to machete fields, harvest coffee and yucca, dig a fish tank, and most recently plant plantain.

Planting with my little host-brother :)
One interesting character very involved in the community is a retired nurse named Diny who lives outside in a nearby city, but owns a coffee farm in El Harino and is the main facilitator for our women’s group Mujeres Unidas.  She is clearly self-motivated, but seems capable of bringing in some useful resources for the community.  She coordinated with a renewable energy government project and was able to bring in a solar kiosk to charge cell phones and a special kind of lamp that was donated to all members of Mujeres Unidas.  I am not convinced that these lamps are actually convenient for the large quantity of members that live in communities far outside of El Harino, but hopefully they will work out somehow.  Also, the solar kiosk was placed right under a very tall tree.  Hmm.

Solar kiosk grand opening.  The kiosk is in the background and the tall tree is just to the left. 
Diny is also interested in working on capacity-building to train El Harino community members on best practices for planting and harvesting coffee.  While she wants to do this in order to increase her options of finding cheap, local labor (she pays about $1/hour), I also want to see this training occur so that community members can better their own coffee farm production.  It seems that we have different motivation, but perhaps can still work together to some degree…

Group of coffee experts Diny gathered to tour her farm.  I tried to ask as many questions as possible about low-cost, organic techniques, but these particular experts didn’t quite seem to have the same priorities.
I am lucky to have an unusually high number of volunteers living in nearby communities.  There are two girls and one guy all living within about a one hour hike away from me.  We coordinate some of our trips out of our communities to use internet and also visit each other when we are in need of an English break.  Last weekend we gathered at my friend Siobhan’s community to check out her prime swimming spot.

Playing in the water with my PCV neighbors.
Records!
I’ll leave you with some notable records I’ve been keeping track of just for fun:

- Maximum number of falls in one day: 3
- Longest rainstorm I had to wait out: 3 hours
- Earliest the roosters have starting crowing: 1:00 am
- Number of pifá fruit I’ve eaten in one sitting: 21
- Number of boiled bananas I’ve eaten in one sitting: 5
- Number of nights spent sleeping on a tiny REI air mattress: 30 and counting (I’ll lug a better mattress out here at some point)
- Number of marañon curazao fruit (related to cashew) I’ve eaten in a day: 3

Delicious marañon curazao fruit