Friday, August 17, 2012

It’s Orange Season! Except they’re not actually orange.


Pride be gone

Last week we had a much more productive work day on the fish tank project.  Much of the muddy water from the last time had drained out through the tube we’d left, which was a huge help.  Also as soon as we arrived, it was decided that we would start by building up a wall on the side of the tank where water continued to seep in and to dig a canal on the other side guiding the water to the tube that carried it out to the creek while we were working.  The funny thing is, that is exactly what I said we should do two weeks ago.  I’m truly not sure if last time they didn’t understand me, if they forgot I had suggested it, or if this was their indirect Panamanian way of telling me they changed their minds and wanted to try it.  Throughout the work day we all commented on how much we were getting done and how great it was going.  I even heard someone say, “If only we’d started with this last time …” Arg.  On one hand I definitely found this frustrating; however, I recognized that day that my work here is not about me getting credit for figuring out solutions to problems.  My work is to encourage others to figure out their own solutions and to have faith in themselves to know that they can.  I’d like to think at the very least that my presence and constant questioning about how they were doing things helped guide them to the more efficient plan they finally implemented, but the bottom line is that even though the previous work day seemed futile, they did not give up and kept at it until they figured out a better way.  I’m so excited about their success.

Before (in case you forgot what this looked like from my ‘quicksand mud’ blog)
And after. Yay for a canal and wall guiding water to a purposefully placed tube to begin filling the tank, which is now ready for fish! 

Playing a Dual-Role: Professional & Community Member

I have recently found myself struggling in some awkward situations.  The main Panamanian agriculture organization MIDA seems to be showing an increasingly large presence in neighboring and my communities.  This is good news because they bring in resources like informational presentations as well as tools and seeds.  As such, I have made a strong effort to connect with them, and this seems to be going well.  I feel I am gaining their respect by showing up to their events, recruiting my community members to come with me, remaining engaged and asking questions throughout their presentations, and I believe my Spanish ability has surprised them.  But I need to be careful.  Many community members think of MIDA employees as out of touch with their realities and think that all they want for is people to pay them to analyze farms and so have no real interest in helping.  They point out that not a single MIDA employee has a farm of their own, so how can they know what is best?  I try to emphasize that combining academic studies by agencies like MIDA with the practical experience of producers like them is the best way to go, and that neither can possibly know everything there is to know about agriculture.  Nevertheless I sense that I need to be careful and avoid being too closely associated with professionals like these. 

Last week I went to a meeting where MIDA discussed a pest that is beginning to show up on coffee farms around Panama called broca.  MIDA brought in their electric generator and gave a PowerPoint presentation.  Really?  The producers in the room had not been exposed to formal education since age 12, read at below a 6th grade level, and rarely if ever see things like computers.  I doubt PowerPoint is the best educational tool for this audience. 

Producers gathered in a classroom to listen to MIDA. 
Furthermore, the vocabulary used throughout the presentation was excessively difficult.  I asked for definitions of some large words even though I knew them just because I was pretty sure others didn’t, but wouldn’t ask themselves.  I hope the producers recognized my willingness to show that I don’t know everything and that asking questions is the best way to learn more.

Complicated slide showing both the life cycles of the pest and also of a fungus that can be used as a biological control.  There is no way the producers will ever use the biological control method (way too expensive and unavailable), so why even show this? I feel this kind of thing confuses more than it enlightens.
After the presentation which was in a neighboring community, I began discussing with my community members that we should get a ride back with MIDA.  The MIDA reps said they were going somewhere first and would pick people up on their way back.  They invited me to go with them and I later found out that I was being treated to their lunch, while my community members waited by the side of the road for us to return.  I felt pretty crappy about that, but again, I also feel that the more trust MIDA has in me, the more help they will provide for community projects.  So I ate my free pifá, bread, yucca, canned sardines, and coffee while chatting it up with the MIDA representatives.  We then headed back to El Harino, stopping along the way so my community members could hop in the back of the truck.


Fun Facts About Daily Life

Oranges here are not orange.  They are harvested pretty green and unripe.  People cut the tops off and suck the juice out.  My family at first laughed at the way I peel and eat the whole orange, but now the kids often ask me to peel theirs my way.  When these oranges start ripening they turn sort of yellow, but still pretty green.  I told them we have oranges in the U.S. too but that they are more orange in color.  My host-dad said, “you mean more yellow?”  I said, “no, more orange.  Like a mix between red and yellow.”  Still not sure he understood.

Harvesting yellowish green oranges.
I have been falling down way less often!  I believe this is due to a combination of factors.  I got Panamanian rubber boots, I take a walking stick with me when I know I will be crossing rivers or creeks, I try to wait a little after intense rain storms for the paths to dry, and hopefully I am simply getting used to how to walk around here.

Intense hike to the top of my host-brother’s Otoi farm (type of root vegetable) with no falling!  You can see my host-family’s house in the background if you look extremely carefully.
I’ve been to a couple of church events at both the evangelical and catholic churches.  I’ve slowly been explaining to people what “I’m Jewish” means and it’s been going over just fine.  People still seem excited to see me at such events and I like seeing community members get together.  Last week I participated in the parading of San Isidrio’s statue from one community to ours.

Marching with community members. 
This saint is some kind of agriculture patron, so of course he is holding a machete and a coa (Panamanian tool for digging holes)
I think it is duck mating season and duck reproduction is somewhat disturbing and violent.  I will spare you any photos.

I have been playing with my host-family kids a lot.  I’ve had lucky timing with holding the baby and have only been peed on again once and have not yet been crapped on at all (no diapers are worn here).  I struggle with not getting upset with the kids for being incredibly hurtful to animals.  Dogs here are whipped for no reason and chickens are tortured.  When we eat, all food scraps (peels and bones) go to the floor where the dogs and birds eat them.  It seems they are doing us a favor by cleaning up, so why kick them and shoe them away?

Cuties
This poor baby chick often gets chased, picked up by its wing or head, and is thrown into the air although it is too young to fly.
Pretty sure this is the “please let go of me” face.
My host-family once asked me to sing a song for them in English.  The first one I thought of was “Twinkle Twinkle Little Star.”  I am now asked to sing this regularly by both the kids and their parents.

My host-dad and I finally picked a day and started a compost pile!  In Panama, things degrade so quickly that the compost should be ready in less than three months.  For some reason, the morning we were to work on compost, I awoke and saw a few piles of burning leaves.  Huh?  I had clearly told my host-dad that we could put leaves in the compost pile, so why was he still burning them?  Who knows.  But fortunately, the rest of our compost-making day went well!  And if this works out, hopefully he’ll continue composting organic material and burn less of it.

Compost = fun for the whole family!
Panamanians are very into limp handshakes.  Limp handshakes (more like touches really) accompany every hello and every goodbye, and are given to everyone in a group.  Like people stop what they’re doing when someone new arrives so that the new person can touch everyone else’s hand, and same goes for when someone leaves the group.  I guess I’m getting used to this.  City Panamanians instead do the hug & and cheek kiss, but not so much out here in the campo.  I miss hugs!  People here also say “hasta mañana” or “see you tomorrow” even when there is no chance you will see them tomorrow.  They seem to treat it as a general way to say “bye” or “see you later.”

So with that said, see you tomorrow :)

Friday, August 3, 2012

“Are there mountains where you’re from?”


Questions

Whether it’s while I’m pasearing or while I’m chilling with my host-family, I find the questions I get asked to be extremely amusing.  Below is a mix of questions, some that I get asked frequently; some that I simply found so entertaining I had to write them down:

“Are there mountains where you’re from?”

“Are there poor people in your country?”

“Do people live in the campo (countryside) where you’re from?”

“Are there Chinese people there?  What about black people?”

“Is the Chinese way of speaking the same as yours?  Can you understand each other?”
-          “No.  Chinese is a different language.”

“Are babies in your country born knowing English or do they have to go to school to learn it?”
-          “All babies are born not knowing how to talk.  They learn to speak the language of their parents.”

“Have you traveled by airplane?  What is that like?”

“Have you traveled by boat?”

“When people go swimming, do they wear lifejackets?
-          “Not usually.”
Not even in the Olympic games?”
-          “Definitely not.”

“Is it true that the U.S. sent the first people that walked on the moon?”

“I’ve heard some say it’s the earth that moves and not the sun.  Is that true?”
-          “Yes.” (I proceed to use pifá fruit to show how the earth rotates on an axis and also rotates around the stationary sun)
“I’ve heard thunder comes from God’s trident.  Is that true?”
-          “I don’t believe so.”

“How many siblings do you have?”
-          “One older sister.”
“And brothers?”
-          “None.”
“It’s just you two?!?!”

“Is it hot like this where you’re from?”
-          “Yes, except it almost never rains.  It is very dry there.”

“How do women stop having babies over there?  Do they all have operations?”

“How much did your ______ cost?”
-          “I don’t remember.  I got it years ago.”  or: “I don’t know, it was a gift.”

“Did you fall down today?”
-          “Yes.”
“How many times?”
-          “…”

“What are you reading?  A dictionary?”
-          “No. I’m reading a book.”

“How much water did you drink today?  Why do you drink so much water?”
-          “Because I sweat a lot.”

“Are you going to get a dog like the last volunteer?”

“I know you are here to work on agriculture, but can you also help us get latrines, a health center, stoves, another aqueduct, etc.?”

“When you leave in 2 years, are you going to sell your stuff like the last volunteer?  Can I buy the mattress you haven’t bought yet?”

“Do you like it here?”

“Do you find yourself / feel at ease here?”  ß I love how they phrase this question.  In Spanish they say: Usted se halla aquí?  It took me a minute to realize their use of hallar, which directly translates “to find” means something more like “are you comfortable here?”  I always answer “yes, of course! … but I’m still trying to get used to walking through mud …”

Mud (mom, you may not like this part)

Before coming to Panama, I had of course heard that it rains a lot and that I would need good footwear to combat the mud.  I knew that the rain would be annoying – it results in the cancelling or postponing of planned events and makes outdoor work somewhat uncomfortable.  I didn’t think much about the mud issue, because I just assumed that since I don’t mind getting dirty (who am I trying to impress here?), I wouldn’t mind dealing with it.  I was naïve.

The paths around my community coming off the main road are narrow and steep.  If you have experience hiking, you have probably already noticed that going downhill is harder on the joints, etc. than going uphill.  Add rain into this equation and going downhill becomes the most challenging thing ever.  I try wearing good boots; I try using a walking stick; I try going ridiculously slowly.  These things certainly help, but they are no guarantee.  I fall down a lot.  Most of you know that I’m a huge klutz and somewhat injury prone.  So far I’ve only suffered from a sore butt, a few bruises/cuts, and of course getting my clothes pretty dirty, but I’m constantly terrified that one of these falls will result in something worse.  My host-family assures me that I will get used to this kind of walking, but they also tell stories of people who’ve fallen and seriously hurt themselves to show that it’s not just me.  They tell me to take it slow and to not rush myself just because others are walking faster.  Ayayay.

There are different types of mud.  Some mud is so slick it reminds me of trying to walk on ice.  Some is so sticky that after walking in it for a few minutes I find I am walking on a platform of heavy mud that is really difficult to remove from the bottom of my shoes.  And some is like quicksand in which your foot begins sinking in and gets completely stuck.  I had some rough times working on a fish tank project in this third type... 

sooo slippery
Chaco sandals = no match for sticky mud
The fish tank I worked on was mostly dug out already but we needed to finish it up and add in the tubing.  The guys immediately went to work trying to remove the sludge from the bottom of the tank.  Shovels didn’t work well because the mud stuck to them.  Bare hands let much of the mud slip through our fingers and so also proved inefficient.  After struggling for a while and trying to decide how much I should intervene considering I had already admitted I know little about fish tanks and was there to learn how to make them, I finally decided to say something.  I suggested we try to dry the tank out before continuing to dig deeper.  We set up some tubes to drain out the water and sludge into the nearby creek.  The work was still really difficult and felt somewhat futile, but I feel like I at least contributed something and they said it was a good idea.

Barefoot and attempting to dig out a fish tank in quicksand mud. 
Keeping Busy

I have now located and visited all of the 41 households that make up El Harino.  Pasearing has proved a great way to get to know people, and I am now beginning a second round of it in order to both catch people that weren’t home the first time and also to gather more information for the community analysis project I have to complete during my first three months here.  Now that I have more experience pasearing, I feel I know better how to direct the conversations to get the information I want.

Busting out my camera is always a great way to get in with the kids as I pasear 
More fun with cameras
I am lucky to have a host-dad who includes me in his work plans.  Many SAS females struggle with machismo and are not taken seriously when it comes to field work.  My host-dad on the other hand, has already invited me to machete fields, harvest coffee and yucca, dig a fish tank, and most recently plant plantain.

Planting with my little host-brother :)
One interesting character very involved in the community is a retired nurse named Diny who lives outside in a nearby city, but owns a coffee farm in El Harino and is the main facilitator for our women’s group Mujeres Unidas.  She is clearly self-motivated, but seems capable of bringing in some useful resources for the community.  She coordinated with a renewable energy government project and was able to bring in a solar kiosk to charge cell phones and a special kind of lamp that was donated to all members of Mujeres Unidas.  I am not convinced that these lamps are actually convenient for the large quantity of members that live in communities far outside of El Harino, but hopefully they will work out somehow.  Also, the solar kiosk was placed right under a very tall tree.  Hmm.

Solar kiosk grand opening.  The kiosk is in the background and the tall tree is just to the left. 
Diny is also interested in working on capacity-building to train El Harino community members on best practices for planting and harvesting coffee.  While she wants to do this in order to increase her options of finding cheap, local labor (she pays about $1/hour), I also want to see this training occur so that community members can better their own coffee farm production.  It seems that we have different motivation, but perhaps can still work together to some degree…

Group of coffee experts Diny gathered to tour her farm.  I tried to ask as many questions as possible about low-cost, organic techniques, but these particular experts didn’t quite seem to have the same priorities.
I am lucky to have an unusually high number of volunteers living in nearby communities.  There are two girls and one guy all living within about a one hour hike away from me.  We coordinate some of our trips out of our communities to use internet and also visit each other when we are in need of an English break.  Last weekend we gathered at my friend Siobhan’s community to check out her prime swimming spot.

Playing in the water with my PCV neighbors.
Records!
I’ll leave you with some notable records I’ve been keeping track of just for fun:

- Maximum number of falls in one day: 3
- Longest rainstorm I had to wait out: 3 hours
- Earliest the roosters have starting crowing: 1:00 am
- Number of pifá fruit I’ve eaten in one sitting: 21
- Number of boiled bananas I’ve eaten in one sitting: 5
- Number of nights spent sleeping on a tiny REI air mattress: 30 and counting (I’ll lug a better mattress out here at some point)
- Number of marañon curazao fruit (related to cashew) I’ve eaten in a day: 3

Delicious marañon curazao fruit

Saturday, July 21, 2012

Hitting the Ground Running


Swear-In

On July 5, 2012 the 71st group of Peace Corps volunteers in Panama swore to protect the constitution of the United States of America and to serve the people of Panama for two years.  Woo!  Swear-in week was an all-around good time.  Our group of 44 (both my Sustainable Agriculture Systems and the Environmental Health groups) got to stay at the Holiday Inn (serious luxury for us) leading up to the ceremony and got to experience a little more of Panama City including the cute although touristy neighborhood of Casco Viejo.  Right after swear-in we headed to a beach to celebrate for the weekend.

SAS ladies post swear-in
View from awesome rooftop bar in Casco Viejo (growing mustaches for swear-in was a big thing for Peace Corps guys)

Beach Corps at El Palmar
Saying goodbye was pretty hard.  We won’t be together as a group again until Interim Service Training in November.  But we’ll keep in touch and hopefully meet up for little breaks from site here and there!


First Two Weeks in Site!

It truly feels like I’m hitting the ground running.  This community has already had a volunteer, who did some really awesome things, and all are eager to continue improving.  It’s really inspiring to see.

Trying to get to know this community is a challenge.  The houses are very spread out, with muddy, narrow, rocky, mountainous paths connecting them to each other or to the main road, which while paved, remains difficult with all of its ups and downs and curves.

Main road running through town
Needless to say, I’m getting a great workout pasearing and my calves are looking good.  But there are mental challenges as well.  I am trying to draw a map of the community (required by Peace Corps) and make sense of what at first seemed a jungle maze but is already becoming more familiar.  Also difficult is learning all of the names in this community, especially when I introduce myself as Lila, and they introduce themselves with all four of their names (each person has two first names and two last names) for me to remember.  But I’m getting down at least one name per person … poco a poco.

When I pasear by myself, I go at a pretty slow pace in an attempt to avoid sweating profusely in between visits and also to avoid falling down the muddy, slippery paths.  When my host family members accompany me, it feels as though I’m running up the mountains through the jungle.  I am so impressed by them and wonder if I’ll ever get used to this kind of leg work!  The walk from the road to my host family’s house takes me 25 minutes alone, and only 15 with my host-family guides of all ages and small sizes pushing me.  I have fallen down at least five times already with a few bruises and some mud stains to show for it.

Sunset on the way home after an afternoon pasear
As I go along, I am also researching info on who is interested in which future projects.  Some families want home gardens and never got the chance when the last volunteer was here.  Some need help finishing up or starting fish tank projects.  Some are interested in organic fertilizers.  Some have coffee farms and are interested both in improving production and also selling strategies.  Some sell other products, but many are the definition of subsistence farmers.

 My host-family grinds sugar cane to make ‘honey’ and huge sugar blocks called raspadura to be sold to clients who already know to come to here for these goods.

Roasting harvested coffee for home consumption.  They burn it pretty intensely to hide bad quality tastes due to poor processing and then cover the burnt flavor by adding a ton of sugar.  Yes, I still love coffee.
I am trying many new foods.  Duck eggs (hard boiled), pifá (palm fruit that tastes like sweet potato), coconut fruit and water, etc.  I said no gracias to chicken feet and left what I think was part of a pig’s tail behind in my yucca stew.  Mostly I eat a lot of root vegetables like yucca, rice, and plantain.  Meals consist of one or more of those empty carbs plus some protein (eggs, fish, lentils, canned sardines are a big thing…) or fruit (banana, pineapple, orange).  Usually I eat the food with nutrients and leave behind a large portion of the empty carbs.
Panamanian duck.  Thanks for the egg!  Not so much for coming in my room and crapping on my floor.  Gross!
Pifá
I have the usual expected visitors in my room.  Found a scorpion hanging on my clothes my first morning.  A cockroach in my bed the second morning.  A spider in my boot the third morning (thankfully I noticed it before putting the boot on).  I’m pretty over any fear of these critters and find them amusing.  At night I look out at the countryside and see fireflies.  Love them!  With the addition of some dry lightning, nights here are pretty magical.  Who needs electricity?

The kids of my host-family house all have chicken pox.  The youngest ones cry a lot (although it’s hard to tell how much they would normally cry anyway because that’s what kids do).  The older ones are dealing pretty well and they should all be well soon.  One of the girls LOVES singing songs about Jesus as LOUD as she possibly can.  These songs are now stuck in my head 24/7.  Que bonito essss andar con Cristooo.  Que bonito essss andar con Él etc. …

Still cute despite chicken pox
I already started teaching English at the school once a week.  I have never taught in a classroom before, and never thought teaching English would be one of my secondary projects.  But the last volunteer did it and the kids clearly love it.  It is a good opportunity for me to get to know the kids and be involved in the community.  So I’ll make it work somehow!

My host-mom taught me how to wash clothes by hand with a brush on a flat rock in the stream.  I need a lot of practice.  It took me 2 hours to wash 5 days’ worth of clothes and I didn’t even do a great job … Hard to believe I was ever lazy about doing laundry back when a machine did it for me, haha.

I have cell phone service in a few select locations on top of very tall hills.  Makes for some lovely spots to call out, but extremely inconvenient, especially considering the amount of coordinating I plan to do with outside agencies that work on agricultural projects with communities like this one.  Communication is a huge problem within the community as well.  No one seems to know exactly when important meetings are taking place, who is supposed to be there, or where the location is.  Everything travels through word of mouth and depends on if you happen to run into the right people with the correct info.

Phone-calling tree stump on top of mountain
I made it to a pretty big government event in a nearby community regarding getting rural lands measured and officially titled (rarely done out here in the campo) and felt very networky collecting contact info from various agencies present.  I had a similar experience at a Mujeres Unidas (United Women) group meeting in my community with people there from different agriculture, development, and renewable energy organizations.  Many opportunities for project collaboration!

Rechargeable lamp project for the Mujeres Unidas group.  Coming soon – the debut of a new kiosk with solar panels where these lamps can be recharged for 25 cents.
I have been practicing my physical agriculture skills.  I harvested coffee with my host-dad (ripening early!).  I macheted weeds both in my host-dad’s yucca/pineapple farm and also at the school with the Padres de Familias group.  The guys laugh at my small machete, but hey, it works for now and I’ll get a longer one when I feel more comfortable using it.

That's it for now until the next time I make the trek out for some internet and a diet coke :)

Thank you, El Harino, for being so beautiful that it is pretty impossible to wish I were anywhere else. 

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Roughing It

During my 5 day site visit to El Harino, Panamá Oeste, I went through about as many ups and downs as there are minutes in a day.  I will return to the family I just stayed with after Peace Corps Swear-In in July and be with them until mid-August.  This is real poverty.  A latrine filled with flies, a wood-platform bed with no mattress (luckily I brought a small, air-filled one), no cell phone service, and long hikes over mountainous, muddy terrain for basic services are some of the low points.  But there are high points too and more than anything, there sure are interesting points.  Believe it or not, I like bucket baths.  There is something beautiful about pouring cool water on my head while I look up at the jungle all around me (never mind the little fish swimming around my feet).  And my long hike home is absolutely gorgeous.

Bucket Bath!  I also get my drinking water here, but filter it first of course.
Walking home = breathtaking
 This family would surely be considered unusual by US standards.  The man of the house (age 43) is taking care of his ex-wife´s children plus has 4 kids with his newer, 24-year-old wife.  He has a son his wife´s age and grandkids older than his own.  They are all incredibly sweet, caring people.  I am a kid magnet and I love playing with all 5 of the youngest ones that range in age from a few months to 11 (I even still love the baby that peed on me ... diapers do not exist here).  My young host-mom told me that I am part of the family and they will help me in any way possible.  She said she knows what it is like to be alone and told me a story of how she spent a month alone in a hospital when she lost 4 fingers on her right hand in a mill accident while processing rice.  Her struggles are certainly harder than mine.

Yeni, Anayanci, Joel, Diana, Rebeca
The religion talks are getting a bit awkward.  Everyone asks what I am, and very few have ever heard of Judaism (I am not even going to try to explain that I am a cultural Jew, not a religious one).  They ask what my church is like and I try to explain that it is a Jewish temple, not a church.  They ask what the difference is between my religion and theirs.  I try to change the topic since I feel like telling them I don´t think Jesus was God´s son nor my savior will go over very well.  So far I default to saying that in the US we have a lot of religions and they are all very different.  There is a pretty strong divide here between Catholics and Evangelists (my host-family is the latter), so at least I am not picking sides on that one.

Had some awesome talks with my host-dad about campo (a better word for countryside) living.  He has lived in a city before (Panamá) and agrees with me that money does not necessarily make people happy.  He came back to the campo so he can live tranquilo.  We also talked about the importance of taking care of the environment.  One day he showed me around his coffee farm and he taught me a lot about local crops and methods.  He grows so many things: coffee, sugar cane, yuca and other roots, banana, plantain, oranges, etc.  He is a conscientious farmer who is always looking for ways to improve and my brain is spinning with project ideas: compost, pruning, harvesting and processing methods, seed selection and nurseries ... Can´t wait to get started!

Backyard farm full of coffee, yuca, plaintain, etc.
It is hard to limit my conversation topics to exclude technology.  People ask how I communicate with my family, but they really do not know what email is.  I have busted out the camera (which the kids love) but had a hard time explaining that I am not going to print them all, but rather leave them in digital form.  Basically I find myself feeling ashamed every time we talk about things that in the states are completely ordinary, but here are unimaginable and excessive.  I think my kindle might stay packed away for the first few months until I get my own place and privacy ... Juegos de Hambre will just have to wait.

I had some good first pasear-ing experiences.  Met some nice neighbors and many gave me gifts of food.  I know giving things like this to visitors is a common part of the culture here, but I can´t help but feel guilty for taking gifts from people who don´t have much, but it is rude to say no.  At least food is something most don´t have to worry about here since they grow it themselves.

Pineapple and Yuca!
Trash-burning is a big thing in all of Panama and I hate it.  The smoke burns my eyes and makes me cough.  But it is what they have to do.  My host-dad said his cows kept getting sick eating plastic bottles, so he has to burn them to get rid of them.  I explain that in the US we have landfills, but that doesn´t come off as sounding much better for the environment than burning.  We agree that the best solution is to have less trash.

Pig rummaging through trash that will be burned later
I saw a lot of boob this week.  Women are surprisingly open when it comes to breast-feeding.  It seems a little strange that they talk about how scandalous the indigenous people are that wear little clothing, while they are so free with their own bodies.  This will take some getting used to for me.

Culprit of boob sightings
Being a follow-up volunteer will be interesting.  It sounds like the last volunteer did some awesome things and I will have some pretty big shoes to fill.  One perk is after living with my first family until mid-August and then a different family for another month and a half, I will get to move into her old house, which looks wonderful.  And by the time I get there I´m sure it will seem all the more luxurious to me.  That house is also closer to the community and right next to the school (right now I live 30-40 minutes from the school ... Woo exercise!).  In the meantime, if this family can be happy living here always, I can certainly handle roughing it for a few short months.
Future house -- Can`t wait for you to come visit!

Friday, June 15, 2012

El Español, el Baile Típico, el Café Robusta, y SITE ANNOUNCEMENT


El Español

As you may already know, I love speaking in Spanish, something I haven’t had the chance to do much in the last few years.  Being back in a Spanish speaking country feels great.  It’s like a constant mind-quiz and I get really excited when random words come back to me that I haven’t used or thought of in years.  We had a language evaluation a couple weeks ago and mine went really well – I tested at Advanced-Medium.  I have now been switched into the language and culture class that includes two native Spanish speakers from Guatemala and El Salvador.  In this class I can get some extra help on more complicated grammar/vocab, work on Panama-specific phrases, and hopefully learn more about Panamanian culture and history.  We are also working on a project where we walk around the community and gather info on local plants, their uses, and how to grow them.  I’m really excited about this switch since my last class was too easy for me and felt limiting.  I’m looking forward to going deeper into more interesting topics.

El Baile Típico

A few weeks ago I finally got to experience Panama’s typical dance.  Panama has your usual latin dances – salsa, merengue, bachata, reggaetón – but it also has its own “típico.”  The rhythm of típico reminds me a bit of a latino-sounding polka mixed with the Texas-two-step, if you can imagine that.  Like the two-step, típico is danced with a partner and you follow the current of people in a circle around the dance floor, going at your own pace but staying with the general flow (although I’ve heard that this circle pattern might vary regionally).  Overall we had a lot of fun with it and as usual, I’m just happy to be doing any form of dancing at all.  I stuck to dancing with other gringos … the older Panamanian borrachos were just a little too creepy for me.

El Café Robusta

Last week was “Tech Week.”  My sustainable agriculture group was split into three depending on the focus of our assignments, and I hit the jackpot – coffee!!  My group of 8 spent one day at a coffee farm in Colón and the rest of the week visiting and working on various coffee farms around Boquete.  As a coffee-lover and a frequent caffeine-addict, I found learning about the whole production process to be fascinating.  We worked on pruning techniques, shade management, organic pest controls, soil improvement strategies, and processing options. 

From the tree to the cup!

Drying process

I also learned a lot about different coffee varieties.  All of the coffee in the world is classified as either “robusta” or “arábica.”  Robusta grows well in lower altitudes (which is what most of Panama has), tastes more bitter, has a higher caffeine content, is used in things like espresso or blends where taste doesn’t matter so much, and is not exported out of Panama because nobody wants it.  Arábica, on the other hand, is valued for its high quality taste, and is sold at high prices globally, but only grows in select areas of Panama like Boquete that are high enough up in altitude.  The taste of Arábica coffee varies depending on the environment in which the trees are grown and cared for, in addition to how the beans are dried, cleaned, and roasted.

Light, Medium, and Dark Roasts
Since I have never been a coffee snob, the taste-testing we did was a little lost on me.  To me, all coffee tastes good and I would rather drink the robusta that has more caffeine, but apparently the rest of the world disagrees with me and does not want to buy Panama robusta.  As such, communities growing robusta coffee focus mainly on maximizing their production and have no incentive to improve the quality of their product, since the extra effort doesn’t result in more income, and selling is limited to local communities or domestic coffee shops.  Pretty small scale stuff, but hey, every little bit of added income helps.  And if grown using the organic, low-input methods we are learning, coffee production can actually benefit natural environments without depleting resources.


“Cupping” (smell & taste testing)
I was really happy to split into a smaller group for the week.  I feel like I got to know the 7 other coffee volunteers really well and we had a lot of fun together.  Very positive energy all week.  Boquete is a beautiful little tourist town with less humidity than in the rest of the country and a beautiful view of Volcán Barú (it’s dormant, don’t worry).  Some of the farms we visited were pretty far out there.  We got to experience our program director’s badass, off-roading skills – river-crossing included!

Adventure time


Fancy Coffee Farm
At the end of the trip Peace Corps gave us our first completely free day since we’ve been here.  My coffee group headed to a beach called Las Lajas where we met up with the Environmental Health group of 24 volunteers.  We took over the beach and it was awesome.  It was a pleasant surprise to discover that the Pacific Ocean down here is actually warm!  We did a lot of swimming, tanning, drinking, and general relaxing.  It was a much needed break and the perfect way to end such an incredible week.  During a night swim we also got to see some bioluminescence going on (I’ve seen it better in Cali, but it was still cool).  Basically my life is amazing and I am feeling very lucky to be doing what I’m doing here.


California girls reunited with the Pacific
Where the jungle meets the Beach


Site Announcement
  
This morning our sites were announced!  I am going to a small, latino community of 200 people called el Harino en the province Panama Oeste (Western Panama).  My site is relatively accessible by road and I have a few other volunteers within a 45 minute hike.  I won't have electricity but will have a relatively stable source of water.  My work will include coffee production but also home gardens, fish tanks, etc.  Woo!  Next week we will visit our communities and find out more info...  !!!